From Around The WORLD
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From Around The WORLD
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Also For Sale: Shelf Queen Models Astute Avante Baja Champ Baja King Baldre Bear Hawk Bigwig Blackfoot Blazing Blazer Blazing Star Blitzer Beetle Boomerang Bruiser Buggy Champ Bullhead Clod Buster Dark Impact Desert Gator Dirt Thrasher Double Blaze DualHunter Durga Egress Falcon Fighter Buggy Fire Dragon Ford Bronco Formula 1 Fox Frog Grasshopper Gravel Hound Holiday Buggy Hornet Hotshot Jeep Wrangler Keen Hawk Lunch Box Mad Bull TA03 Chassis Models TA03F Chassis Models TA04 Chassis Models TA05 Chassis Models TB01 Chassis Models TB02 Chassis Models TG10 Chassis Models TG10R Chassis Models TGR Chassis Models TL01 Chassis Models TT01 Chassis Models |
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Also For Sale: Shelf Queen Models MadCap Mad Fighter Manta Ray Midnight Pumpkin Mini Monster Beetle Mud Blaster Nissan King Cab Nitrage 5.2 Overlander Pajero Plasma Edge Rising Fighter Rising Storm Rough Rider Saint Dragon Sand Rover Sand Scorcher Sand Viper Sonic Fighter Stadium Blitzer Stadium Raider Stadium Thunder Striker Subaru Brat Super Champ Super Fighter Super Sabre Supershot Terra Scorcher Thunder Dragon Thunder Shot Top Force Toyota Hilux Monster Racer Vanquish Wild Dagger Wild One Wild Willy Willys Wheeler FF01 Chassis Models FF02 Chassis Models F103 Chassis Models F201 Chassis Models M01 Chassis Models M02 Chassis Models M03 Chassis Models M04L Chassis Models M05 Chassis Models TA01 Chassis Models TA02 Chassis Models |
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It Might be here Tomorrow. |
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Astute Avante Baja Champ Baja King Baldre Bear Hawk Bigwig Blackfoot Blazing Blazer Blazing Star Blitzer Beetle Boomerang Bruiser Buggy Champ Bullhead Clod Buster Dark Impact Desert Gator Dirt Thrasher Double Blaze DualHunter Durga Egress Falcon Fighter Buggy Fire Dragon Ford Bronco Formula 1 Fox Frog Grasshopper Gravel Hound Holiday Buggy Hornet Hotshot Jeep Wrangler Keen Hawk Lunch Box Mad Bull MadCap Mad Fighter Manta Ray Midnight Pumpkin Mini Monster Beetle Mud Blaster Nissan King Cab Nitrage 5.2 Overlander Pajero Plasma Edge Rising Fighter Rising Storm Rough Rider Saint Dragon Sand Rover Sand Scorcher Sand Viper Sonic Fighter Stadium Blitzer Stadium Raider Stadium Thunder Striker Subaru Brat Super Champ Super Fighter Super Sabre Supershot Terra Scorcher Thunder Dragon Thunder Shot Top Force Toyota Hilux Monster Racer Vanquish Wild Dagger Wild One Wild Willy Willys Wheeler FF01 FF02 F103 F201 M01 M02 M03 M04L M05 TA01 TA02 TA03 TA03F TA04 TA05 TB01 TB02 TG10 TG10R TGR TL01 TT01 |
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Radio Gear How to avoid Interference. 1/ The first consideration when installing your Receiver into your Electrically Powered Model is to make sure it is well away from the Negative Battery terminal, and the Motor. The Magnetic field can cause stuttering type interference at times of high current draw (i.e., Fast Acceleration) 2/ Make sure the Ariel tube is long enough for the Ariel wire. The tip of this wire is highly sensitive and should be as high, and as far away from the Motor as possible (yup, its that magnetic field prob again) 3/ If all else fails, a simple tip that often works for all RC Model enthusiasts is to wrap the receiver in Aluminium Foil, to shield against any magnetic and external radio interference. 4/ As a last resort, to protect against servo twitch, try ferrite beads. (available at Radio Shack or Maplins) These are threaded over the red, white (or yellow) and black wires of each servo. |
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Bearings How to get the best out of your bearings. In this section I will endeavor to pass on a few hints and tips that (if you are serious about your racing) could just give you the edge over your competition. My own experience is in both Off and On Road, National and International Car racing, but most of these tips could be useful to all forms of RC. 1/ Shields: The main problem with shields is friction, the more you can reduce friction the more efficient the bearing, so here's a tip that does just that. Wheel Bearings always come in pairs, side by side. If you think about it the two inside shields on each bearing aren't needed, so ... remove them, using a small jewelers screwdriver ... simple, and in one fell swoop you have halved your wheel bearing friction. 2/ Cleaning: All Bearings need to be cleaned from time to time. Depending on how focused and competitive you are, this can be as often as after each meet, or once or twice a year ... For Club Meetings once or twice a year might be all you need if you are easily beating your competition, but for the BIG meets you need that extra 5% or 10% just to be up with the rest. What you need is a small glass jar, a jewelers screwdriver, an old tooth brush and some Isoproponol. Remove the shields, then drop the bearings in the jar, add some Isopropanol, pop on the lid and shake well. Empty them out, give them a good brushing and make sure they spin free then repeat the process. Clean the shields separately. Once you are satisfied, lay them on a piece of kitchen roll and allow to dry. 3/ Lubrication: The arguments I have had about what lubrication to use you wouldn't believe. Some of the top racers of my day swore they didn't use any at all, but cleaned out the original lubrication and ran them dry ... they also admitted to fitting a new set after each meeting ... well, they were getting them for free. My tip is, yes even with a new set of bearings, clean out the original lubrication (as described above) and with one shield in place use the thinnest oil you can find ... I recommend ZX1 (Zed Ex One) or sowing machine oil. Never use grease!! |
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For Sale in Canada