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 Established 1999 KyoshoFor Sale in the USA |
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Electric Motors A/ The first number relates to the number of times the wires are wound round each of the 3 armature segments, the second number relates to the number of wires side by side. So a 15x2 would have 2 wires laid side by side and wrapped around each segment 15 times. Q/ What is the difference in performance between a Low Turn motor (eg 11x1) and a High Turn motor (eg 27x1)? A/ A Motor with Less Turns like an 11x1 means Less runtime, but More Power (Torque or Punch) Best for short straights, lots of corner tracks where fast acceleration is needed. (use a small pinion) Motors with More Turns like a 27x1 give you More runtime, but Less Power. So you get a smoother response and are therefore easier to drive. Better for less experienced drivers and Long straight, sweeping corner tracks. (with a large pinion) Q/ How do the number of winds effect a motor? A/ A Motor with More Winds (number of wires eg 13x5) is less demanding on the battery, and smoother in acceleration. Best for low grip, slippery tracks. A Low Wind Motor (eg 11x1) is more punchy and can be difficult to handle. Best on high grip hot weather or indoor carpet high acceleration low speed tracks. A/ On the Endbell of a Modified Motor (where the brushes fit) you will find two screws that hold the Endbell to the Can. If these screws are slackened off slightly the Endbell can then be twisted either Clockwise (Advance) or Anticlockwise (Retard). Q/ What does "Advancing" the Endbell position do? A/ Advancing the Endbell Reduces runtime, increases Punch (acceleration) and RPM to give a higher top speed. On the down side, the brushes wear faster and the increased current draw creates more arcing thus increased heat and Commutator (Comm) wear. Q/ What does "Retarding" the Endbell position do? A/ Retarding the Endbell Increases runtime, decreases Punch (acceleration) and RPM to give a lower top speed. Brush wear and Commutator (Comm) wear is reduced. A/ Basically, Hard brushes give a lower current draw, so consequently give longer run times and lower torque so less punch (acceleration) Soft Brushes on the other hand increase current draw thus give higher torque and increased acceleration. Of course the down side of this is that Soft brushes wear much faster and must be changed more often. (I change mine when they get to around 5mm) Q/ How does changing the brush spring change the motor? A/ If you fit Stiffer Brush Springs your motor will have More power at low revs, and also a lower top speed. I only ever fit stiff springs on bumpy tracks to reduce brush bounce. Weaker springs reduce power but increase RPM so give less acceleration but a higher top speed. Good for long, sweeping, smooth tracks, where you can carry good speed through the corners. 1/ For top level racing, strip, clean, skim and fit new brushes to your motor every 5 or 6 runs. And don't forget to oil the bearings with light sowing machine oil or ZX1. 2/ Never over gear your motor. Check the brushes after each run and if the ends of the brushes are blue (this means the lubrication in the brushes has been burnt away and is causing increased friction and wear on the comm.) change them straight away and either lower your gearing or fit a weaker spring. 3/ If you don't have weaker springs you can try bending a pair of stiff springs with a pair of snipe nose pliers. 4/ A cool motor is an efficient motor. Have you ever noticed that as the race nears the last minute or so your car seems to loose its punch out of the corners. Well some of this may be due to your batteries dumping (batteries loose their efficiency as they get hotter - ever heard of temperature resistance? You have now.) but your motor also looses power due to heat, as the magnets become less efficient. My best tip, and some regard as controversial, is to get yourself a can of liquid nitrogen spray (The kind of thing doctors use to freeze off warts) and lightly spray the motor innards through the endbell just before a race. But remember don't overdo this as it can cause damage. You have been warned. 5/ To increase power, reduce friction, arcing and therefore heating the motor to some degree, try a drop of ZX1 on the face of each brush before a run. The effect only lasts maybe 3 or 4 laps but it may be enough to get your nose infront |
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Tires Rubber Tires ALWAYS should have either soft sponge or rubber inserts. They will not function as they should without them. And if you are totaly serious about your racing they should be glued to the rims. You should also have at least three different compounds (Soft, Medium and Hard) fo varying track temperatures in On Road tarmac racing Touring cars, and varying pin sizes for carpet and of course Off Road racing Buggies. Before mounting your Tires I would recommend asking around the more experienced racers at your local club as to what inserts they use. Even the top level racers rely on a bit of local knowledge on tracks they have never raced before. 1/ Once you have decided what inserts to use, position them inside the Tires ready to go onto the rims. 2/ You will need strong fingers to pull and manoever the Tires over the rims so you may need the help of an adult. (I would recommend NOT using metal Tire leavers as they can not only damage the fragile plastic rims but can also put small tears in the rubber, that could cause problems later) The techneque I recommend is to first of all hook the Tire on one side of the rim, then using the thumb and forefinger, grip the Tire and pull it upwards and over into position around the middle of the wheel, then over to its final position on the far side so that the beading is seated in the spigot. then position the near side beading in the opposite spiggot making sure the sponge (or rubber) incert is not trapped and positioned centrally. 3/ You have the option of either gluing or not gluing your tires on. If the track you race at is not too grippy you can get away with it, but on high grip tracks there is the possibility the tire might pull away from the rim and ruin your race. My recommendation in that case is to glue. Superglue is the thing to use. To do this carefully pull the beeding out of its seating put on a spot of glue then quickly push it back down. repeat this about 6 times around each side of the wheel. Superglue can be dangerous, so this is best done by an adult. Sponge Tires can be puchased either pre mounted, glued and trued on the rims or seperately. Fitting the Tires onto the rims can be messy so here are a few tips to make it a bit easier. If you are fitting new Tires on old rims make sure the old sponge Tire is completely removed, to do this I recomend using a wood lathe and a bat or piece of wood with medium grit emery paper stuck to it ... sand paper will also work, but emery is harder wearing ... This will also be used for trueing the wheel, described later. 1/ Mount the Tires on the rims. Make sure they are reasonably tight on the rims, too loose and you might have problems. 2/ I find this to be easier if either in the lathe or on the car itself (but be carefull with that glue) Using your thumb and forefinger, lift up the Tire off the rim, then using a small spatula or a thin piece of rigid wood or plastic dipped in glue (I recomend Evo-Stik, Impact Adhesive) slip it in the gap, making sure both the Tire and the rim are smeared. Then lower the Tire back onto the rim and press it down. Turn the Tire approximately 60 degrees and repeat. 3/ Depending on the width ot the Tire you may need to repeat the process on the inside also. Trueing Sponge Tires is esential if you are serious about racing competatively. To do this you will need the bat or piece of wood, as described earlier and a good pair of vernear or digital calipers. Sponge Tires will always wear unevenly, weather you race on Carpet or Tarmac, the outside wheels will always end a race smaller than the inside, so after each race I recommend swaping them over (unless u are fortunate to have a new set for each race) and dont forget to adjust the steering trim on your transmitter before the next race. 1/ Before starting check each mounted Tire for diamiter and order them smallest to largest. Start with the smallest and mount it in the lathe. 2/ Make sure you are wearing safety glasses before you start this procedure: Lay the sanding bat under the Tire so that it can be pivoted up from behind onto the Tire. Start the lathe spinning so that as you stand before the Tire it is rotating downwards. Slowly lift the bat and try to hold it ridged as it comes up against the Tire. There will be a high point on the Tire that if you hold the bat rigid enough will eventually wear down until the Tire apears completely concentric. at this point stop the lathe and measure the diameter on the inside and outside of the width. If needs be, repeat the process until satisfied. Repeat for each Tire, mathcing them in pairs for diamiter. If concidered necessery also trim the sides. |
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