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 Established 1999 CorallyFor Sale in the UK |
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Radio Gear How to avoid Interference. 1/ The first consideration when installing your Receiver into your Electrically Powered Model is to make sure it is well away from the Negative Battery terminal, and the Motor. The Magnetic field can cause stuttering type interference at times of high current draw (i.e., Fast Acceleration) 2/ Make sure the Ariel tube is long enough for the Ariel wire. The tip of this wire is highly sensitive and should be as high, and as far away from the Motor as possible (yup, its that magnetic field prob again) 3/ If all else fails, a simple tip that often works for all RC Model enthusiasts is to wrap the receiver in Aluminium Foil, to shield against any magnetic and external radio interference. 4/ As a last resort, to protect against servo twitch, try ferrite beads. (available at Radio Shack or Maplins) These are threaded over the red, white (or yellow) and black wires of each servo. |
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Electric Motors A/ The first number relates to the number of times the wires are wound round each of the 3 armature segments, the second number relates to the number of wires side by side. So a 15x2 would have 2 wires laid side by side and wrapped around each segment 15 times. Q/ What is the difference in performance between a Low Turn motor (eg 11x1) and a High Turn motor (eg 27x1)? A/ A Motor with Less Turns like an 11x1 means Less runtime, but More Power (Torque or Punch) Best for short straights, lots of corner tracks where fast acceleration is needed. (use a small pinion) Motors with More Turns like a 27x1 give you More runtime, but Less Power. So you get a smoother response and are therefore easier to drive. Better for less experienced drivers and Long straight, sweeping corner tracks. (with a large pinion) Q/ How do the number of winds effect a motor? A/ A Motor with More Winds (number of wires eg 13x5) is less demanding on the battery, and smoother in acceleration. Best for low grip, slippery tracks. A Low Wind Motor (eg 11x1) is more punchy and can be difficult to handle. Best on high grip hot weather or indoor carpet high acceleration low speed tracks. A/ On the Endbell of a Modified Motor (where the brushes fit) you will find two screws that hold the Endbell to the Can. If these screws are slackened off slightly the Endbell can then be twisted either Clockwise (Advance) or Anticlockwise (Retard). Q/ What does "Advancing" the Endbell position do? A/ Advancing the Endbell Reduces runtime, increases Punch (acceleration) and RPM to give a higher top speed. On the down side, the brushes wear faster and the increased current draw creates more arcing thus increased heat and Commutator (Comm) wear. Q/ What does "Retarding" the Endbell position do? A/ Retarding the Endbell Increases runtime, decreases Punch (acceleration) and RPM to give a lower top speed. Brush wear and Commutator (Comm) wear is reduced. A/ Basically, Hard brushes give a lower current draw, so consequently give longer run times and lower torque so less punch (acceleration) Soft Brushes on the other hand increase current draw thus give higher torque and increased acceleration. Of course the down side of this is that Soft brushes wear much faster and must be changed more often. (I change mine when they get to around 5mm) Q/ How does changing the brush spring change the motor? A/ If you fit Stiffer Brush Springs your motor will have More power at low revs, and also a lower top speed. I only ever fit stiff springs on bumpy tracks to reduce brush bounce. Weaker springs reduce power but increase RPM so give less acceleration but a higher top speed. Good for long, sweeping, smooth tracks, where you can carry good speed through the corners. 1/ For top level racing, strip, clean, skim and fit new brushes to your motor every 5 or 6 runs. And don't forget to oil the bearings with light sowing machine oil or ZX1. 2/ Never over gear your motor. Check the brushes after each run and if the ends of the brushes are blue (this means the lubrication in the brushes has been burnt away and is causing increased friction and wear on the comm.) change them straight away and either lower your gearing or fit a weaker spring. 3/ If you don't have weaker springs you can try bending a pair of stiff springs with a pair of snipe nose pliers. 4/ A cool motor is an efficient motor. Have you ever noticed that as the race nears the last minute or so your car seems to loose its punch out of the corners. Well some of this may be due to your batteries dumping (batteries loose their efficiency as they get hotter - ever heard of temperature resistance? You have now.) but your motor also looses power due to heat, as the magnets become less efficient. My best tip, and some regard as controversial, is to get yourself a can of liquid nitrogen spray (The kind of thing doctors use to freeze off warts) and lightly spray the motor innards through the endbell just before a race. But remember don't overdo this as it can cause damage. You have been warned. 5/ To increase power, reduce friction, arcing and therefore heating the motor to some degree, try a drop of ZX1 on the face of each brush before a run. The effect only lasts maybe 3 or 4 laps but it may be enough to get your nose infront |
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