< style="word-spacing: 1; line-height: 100%; text-indent: 0; margin-top: -7; margin-bottom: -3">RCScrapyard ► Hints and Setup Tips: FREE RC Classifieds: Buy and Sell Radio Control gear◄ So what is an RC Buggy ?. Back in the 1970s and 80s the old VW beetle (known as the BUG or Buggy) was aplenty, and you could buy an old banger for next to nothing, which made it perfect for the young engineering student to purchase and modify to his wildest imaginings. And that's just what they did. By raising and extending the suspension and fitting larger wheels and tyres and removing the roof and fitting Roll Bars they produced the perfect Off Road fun car. Model Manufacturers such as Tamiya and Associated were quick to pick up on the idea and the Radio Controlled Off Road Buggy (Buggie) was born. If you are looking for a quick, cheap, low cost way into Radio Controlled (Remote Controlled) scale model Racing, by purchasing second hand, previously owned RC Buggy (Buggie) equipment, spares parts and components, or want to upgrade your existing Buggy setup you have come to the right place. This section covers new and used, 2nd hand, RC Buggies For Sale at cheap, bargain prices. For UK, Australia, Canada and Espana Sales click below.
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RCScrapyard: New, used, second hand radio controlled models, parts and spares.
Established 1999

RC Buggys

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Radio Controlled Models
For Sale:

Radio Equipment:
2.4 Ghz Radio
27 Mhz Radio
35 Mhz Radio
40 Mhz Radio
72 Mhz Radio
75 Mhz Radio
Crystals
Receivers
Servos

Accesories:
AMB Lap Counters
Batteries
Battery Chargers
Bearings
Body Clips
Car Body Shells
Truck Body Shells
Dampers (Shocks)
Damper Oil
Damper Springs
Decals (Stickers)
Electric Motors
ESC
Heatsinks
Minature Cameras
Nitro Engines
Pinion Gears
Spur Gears
Tires
Wheels

Model Types:
Airplanes
Boats
Buggys
Dragsters
Drift Cars
Formula One
Helicopters
Lorrys
Monster Trucks
Motorcycles
Touring Cars
Tractors
Trucks
WRC Cars


Also For Sale:
RC Buggies
RC Drift Cars
RC Airplanes
RC Boats
RC Monster Trucks
RC F1 Cars
WRC Cars
Drag Cars
RC Motorcycles
RC Mini Stock
RC Helicopters
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Also For Sale:
Radio Gear
E.S.C
Batteries
Chargers
El Motors
Comm Lathes
Ball Bearings
AMB Lap Counters
Body Shells
Tyres
Wheels
Shock Absorbers




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Hints and Tips

Electric Motors

Winds and Turns.

Q/  What does 15x2 or 17x3 mean?

A/  The first number relates to the number of times the wires are wound round each of the 3 armature segments, the second number relates to the number of wires side by side. So a 15x2 would have 2 wires laid side by side and wrapped around each segment 15 times.


Q/  What is the difference in performance between a Low Turn motor (eg 11x1) and a High Turn motor (eg 27x1)?

A/  A Motor with Less Turns like an 11x1 means Less runtime, but More Power (Torque or Punch) Best for short straights, lots of corner tracks where fast acceleration is needed. (use a small pinion)
Motors with More Turns like a 27x1 give you More runtime, but Less Power. So you get a smoother response and are therefore easier to drive. Better for less experienced drivers and Long straight, sweeping corner tracks. (with a large pinion)


Q/  How do the number of winds effect a motor?

A/  A Motor with More Winds (number of wires eg 13x5) is less demanding on the battery, and smoother in acceleration. Best for low grip, slippery tracks.
A Low Wind Motor (eg 11x1) is more punchy and can be difficult to handle. Best on high grip hot weather or indoor carpet high acceleration low speed tracks.


Advance and Retard.

Q/  What is Advance and Retard?

A/  On the Endbell of a Modified Motor (where the brushes fit) you will find two screws that hold the Endbell to the Can. If these screws are slackened off slightly the Endbell can then be twisted either Clockwise (Advance) or Anticlockwise (Retard).


Q/  What does "Advancing" the Endbell position do?

A/  Advancing the Endbell Reduces runtime, increases Punch (acceleration) and RPM to give a higher top speed.
On the down side, the brushes wear faster and the increased current draw creates more arcing thus increased heat and Commutator (Comm) wear.


Q/  What does "Retarding" the Endbell position do?

A/  Retarding the Endbell Increases runtime, decreases Punch (acceleration) and RPM to give a lower top speed.
Brush wear and Commutator (Comm) wear is reduced.


Brushes and Springs.

Q/  What is the effect of hard and soft Brushes?

A/  Basically, Hard brushes give a lower current draw, so consequently give longer run times and lower torque so less punch (acceleration)
Soft Brushes on the other hand increase current draw thus give higher torque and increased acceleration. Of course the down side of this is that Soft brushes wear much faster and must be changed more often. (I change mine when they get to around 5mm)


Q/  How does changing the brush spring change the motor?

A/  If you fit Stiffer Brush Springs your motor will have More power at low revs, and also a lower top speed. I only ever fit stiff springs on bumpy tracks to reduce brush bounce.
Weaker springs reduce power but increase RPM so give less acceleration but a higher top speed. Good for long, sweeping, smooth tracks, where you can carry good speed through the corners.


General "Electric Motor" Tips.

1/   For top level racing, strip, clean, skim and fit new brushes to your motor every 5 or 6 runs. And don't forget to oil the bearings with light sowing machine oil or ZX1.

2/   Never over gear your motor. Check the brushes after each run and if the ends of the brushes are blue (this means the lubrication in the brushes has been burnt away and is causing increased friction and wear on the comm.) change them straight away and either lower your gearing or fit a weaker spring.

3/   If you don't have weaker springs you can try bending a pair of stiff springs with a pair of snipe nose pliers.

4/   A cool motor is an efficient motor.
Have you ever noticed that as the race nears the last minute or so your car seems to loose its punch out of the corners. Well some of this may be due to your batteries dumping (batteries loose their efficiency as they get hotter - ever heard of temperature resistance? You have now.) but your motor also looses power due to heat, as the magnets become less efficient.
My best tip, and some regard as controversial, is to get yourself a can of liquid nitrogen spray (The kind of thing doctors use to freeze off warts) and lightly spray the motor innards through the endbell just before a race. But remember don't overdo this as it can cause damage. You have been warned.

5/   To increase power, reduce friction, arcing and therefore heating the motor to some degree, try a drop of ZX1 on the face of each brush before a run. The effect only lasts maybe 3 or 4 laps but it may be enough to get your nose infront

Check out my other pages below for more Hints and Tips.


For Sale in the USA
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Hints and Tips

Bearings

How to get the best out of your bearings.

  In this section I will endeavor to pass on a few hints and tips that (if you are serious about your racing) could just give you the edge over your competition.
  My own experience is in both Off and On Road, National and International Car racing, but most of these tips could be useful to all forms of RC.

1/  Shields: The main problem with shields is friction, the more you can reduce friction the more efficient the bearing, so here's a tip that does just that.
Wheel Bearings always come in pairs, side by side. If you think about it the two inside shields on each bearing aren't needed, so ... remove them, using a small jewelers screwdriver ... simple, and in one fell swoop you have halved your wheel bearing friction.

2/  Cleaning: All Bearings need to be cleaned from time to time. Depending on how focused and competitive you are, this can be as often as after each meet, or once or twice a year ... For Club Meetings once or twice a year might be all you need if you are easily beating your competition, but for the BIG meets you need that extra 5% or 10% just to be up with the rest.
What you need is a small glass jar, a jewelers screwdriver, an old tooth brush and some Isoproponol.
Remove the shields, then drop the bearings in the jar, add some Isopropanol, pop on the lid and shake well. Empty them out, give them a good brushing and make sure they spin free then repeat the process. Clean the shields separately. Once you are satisfied, lay them on a piece of kitchen roll and allow to dry.

3/  Lubrication: The arguments I have had about what lubrication to use you wouldn't believe. Some of the top racers of my day swore they didn't use any at all, but cleaned out the original lubrication and ran them dry ... they also admitted to fitting a new set after each meeting ... well, they were getting them for free.
My tip is, yes even with a new set of bearings, clean out the original lubrication (as described above) and with one shield in place use the thinnest oil you can find ... I recommend ZX1 (Zed Ex One) or sowing machine oil. Never use grease!!

Check out my other pages below for more Hints and Tips.


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Hints and Tips

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Check out my other pages for more Hints and Tips.
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Radio
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Batteries
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< style="word-spacing: 1; line-height: 100%; text-indent: 0; margin-top: -7; margin-bottom: -3">RCScrapyard ► Hints and Setup Tips: FREE RC Classifieds: Buy and Sell Radio Control gear◄ Associated RC Models including TC3, TC4, RC10, B2 ,B3. Radio Controlled Bolink. RC Model Cars, BRP parts and spares. Hundreds of Off road gas (nitro) and electric Buggys (buggies). Cobra Buggy Cars, Corally electric motors and scale Car models.Duratrax Model Cars and equipment. Eagle scale model kits, Fox nitro engines.Gas powered Radio Controlled Scale Model Cars Boats and Planes. Hitari remote controlled model cars, Hobbico models and upgrade parts. Hot Bodies RC Model cars and spares. Radio controlled scale model Hovercraft. HPI model cars, tyres and spare parts. Hudy RC tyre truing lathes and equipment. Jako scale model car sponge tyres (tires). Kawada model cars. Kimbrough servo savers and spur gears etc. Kyosho Gas (nitro) and electric RC Model on road (saloons / sedans / touring) cars and off road Buggies (buggys), Losi RC Scale Model Cars, including Street Weapon, xx, xx4, xxx4 etc. LRP Electronic Speed Controllers, Elrctric Motors and Matched Battey Packs. Lunsford Titanium Turn-Buckles pivot pins and shock shafts. Mardave Mini Stock Cars, On Road Saloons and Off Road Buggies. Megatech 27mhz / 40mhz /75mhz Radio transmitters, receivers, servos and crystals. Mini Stock Cars, spares and parts. MIP CVD (Constant Velocity Drive) joints, drive shafts, clutches, shiny steel axles, ball differentials (diffs) temperature gauges etc. Radio Controlled (RC) Scale Model Monster Trucks. Electric Modified and Stock (27 turn) Motors. Mugen 1/8 Scale Gas, (Nitro / Petrol) Off Road Buggies (Buggys) and On Road Sedans (Saloons). Multiplex airplanes, electronic speed controllers (ESC), Radio gear, Digital Servos and Brushless Electric Motors. Nikko iracer, radio (remote) controlled cars (buggies and saloons / sedans), sail-boats, fire-boats, ships submarines and battery pack chargers. Radio (remote) Controlled Nitro Buggies (Buggys) and Saloons (sedans). Nosram Electronic speed controllers (ESC). Novak Rhino battery Chargers, Electronic Speed Controllers (Cyclone)(ESC) Switch synthesized transmitter, 75mhz Module, power caps etc. Ofna 1/8 scale Off Road Buggies (Buggys), On Road Saloons / Touring / WRC (Sedans) xtm Starter Box. Orion Modified and Stock (27 Turn) Electric Motors for RC Model Cars, Matched Batteries (NiCad and NiMh). Radio Controlled Scale Model Cars for Oval Racing. Radio Controlled (RC) Pan Cars. Parma Modified and stock Electric Motors, parts and accessories. Peak Performance Modified and Stock Motors. Petrol Powered Radio Controlled Model Cars, Boats and Airplanes. Picco Gas / Nitro / Petrol engines for RC Scale Models. Pit Shimizu On Road Tyres (Tires) for Model Cars. Planes, Gas and Electric Powered. Pro-Line Model Car Tyres (Tires). Proto Form Scale Model Car Shells. Race Prep RC Motor additive for increased RPM and Torque. Model Rally Car Kits. Ride, Scale Model Tyres (Tires). Riko Battery Chargers. Robinson RC Model hop ups, parts and spares. RPM model car accessories. Sanwa Transmitters, receivers and servos. Sanyo C Cell Batteries. Schumacher RC Model Buggies and Saloons (sedan Cars), Electric Motors, Matched Batteries. Radio Controlled (RC) scale Model Tanks. Serpent Gas (Nitro) Powered Radio (Remote) Controlled Model Cars. Lexan Body Shells for Scale Saloon (Touring / WRC) Buggies (Buggys) and Trucks Racing Cars. Radio Controlled (RC) scale Model Ships new and used. Radio (remote) Controlled RC Stock Cars. Stock Motors (27 Wind) For Sale. Take Off Model Car Tyres (Tires). Tamiya Model Car kits, Tank Kits, Radio Gear and Batteries (Stick and Saddle Packs). Tekin Electronic Speed Controllers (ESC) and Battery Chargers. Tenth Technology Predator On Road and Off Road Buggies and Saloons (Sedans). Thunder Tiger RC Airplanes, Helicopters and Gas Engines. T-Max 4x4 RC Monster Trucks. Traxxas On and Off Road Buggies and Saloons (Sedans). TRC Sponge Tyres (Tires) for On Road or indoor Carpet Racing. Venom, Xray radio controlled model cars. Yokomo model cars and electric motors. YS gas engines for RC Models. Wheels, rims for scale model buggies and saloons.