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RCScrapyard: New, used, second hand radio controlled models, parts and spares.
Established 1999

Electric RC Boats

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Radio Controlled Boats
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Model Manufacturers:
Aeromarine Boats
Aquacraft Boats
CEN Boats
Dumas Boats
Kyosho Boats
Megatech Boats
Midwest Boats
New Bright Boats
Proboat Boats
Silverlit Boats
Thunder Tiger Boats
Traxxas Boats
Venom Boats

Radio Equipment:
2.4 Ghz Radio
35 Mhz Radio
40 Mhz Radio
35Mhz Crystals
40Mhz Crystals
2.4Ghz Receivers
35Mhz Receivers
40Mhz Receivers
Waterproof Rec Boxes
Waterproof Servos

Accesories:
Batteries (General)
Battery Chargers
Bearings (general)
Boat Electric Motors
Boat Gas/Nitro Engines
Waterproof ESC

Other Models:
Airplanes
Buggys
Helicopters
Lorrys
Monster Trucks
Touring Cars
Tractors
Trucks


Also For Sale:
RC Buggies
RC Drift Cars
RC Airplanes
RC Boats
RC Monster Trucks
RC F1 Cars
WRC Cars
Drag Cars
RC Motorcycles
RC Mini Stock
RC Helicopters
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Also For Sale:
Radio Gear
E.S.C
Batteries
Chargers
El Motors
Comm Lathes
Ball Bearings
AMB Lap Counters
Body Shells
Tyres
Wheels
Shock Absorbers




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Hints and Tips

Electric Motors

Winds and Turns.

Q/  What does 15x2 or 17x3 mean?

A/  The first number relates to the number of times the wires are wound round each of the 3 armature segments, the second number relates to the number of wires side by side. So a 15x2 would have 2 wires laid side by side and wrapped around each segment 15 times.


Q/  What is the difference in performance between a Low Turn motor (eg 11x1) and a High Turn motor (eg 27x1)?

A/  A Motor with Less Turns like an 11x1 means Less runtime, but More Power (Torque or Punch) Best for short straights, lots of corner tracks where fast acceleration is needed. (use a small pinion)
Motors with More Turns like a 27x1 give you More runtime, but Less Power. So you get a smoother response and are therefore easier to drive. Better for less experienced drivers and Long straight, sweeping corner tracks. (with a large pinion)


Q/  How do the number of winds effect a motor?

A/  A Motor with More Winds (number of wires eg 13x5) is less demanding on the battery, and smoother in acceleration. Best for low grip, slippery tracks.
A Low Wind Motor (eg 11x1) is more punchy and can be difficult to handle. Best on high grip hot weather or indoor carpet high acceleration low speed tracks.


Advance and Retard.

Q/  What is Advance and Retard?

A/  On the Endbell of a Modified Motor (where the brushes fit) you will find two screws that hold the Endbell to the Can. If these screws are slackened off slightly the Endbell can then be twisted either Clockwise (Advance) or Anticlockwise (Retard).


Q/  What does "Advancing" the Endbell position do?

A/  Advancing the Endbell Reduces runtime, increases Punch (acceleration) and RPM to give a higher top speed.
On the down side, the brushes wear faster and the increased current draw creates more arcing thus increased heat and Commutator (Comm) wear.


Q/  What does "Retarding" the Endbell position do?

A/  Retarding the Endbell Increases runtime, decreases Punch (acceleration) and RPM to give a lower top speed.
Brush wear and Commutator (Comm) wear is reduced.


Brushes and Springs.

Q/  What is the effect of hard and soft Brushes?

A/  Basically, Hard brushes give a lower current draw, so consequently give longer run times and lower torque so less punch (acceleration)
Soft Brushes on the other hand increase current draw thus give higher torque and increased acceleration. Of course the down side of this is that Soft brushes wear much faster and must be changed more often. (I change mine when they get to around 5mm)


Q/  How does changing the brush spring change the motor?

A/  If you fit Stiffer Brush Springs your motor will have More power at low revs, and also a lower top speed. I only ever fit stiff springs on bumpy tracks to reduce brush bounce.
Weaker springs reduce power but increase RPM so give less acceleration but a higher top speed. Good for long, sweeping, smooth tracks, where you can carry good speed through the corners.


General "Electric Motor" Tips.

1/   For top level racing, strip, clean, skim and fit new brushes to your motor every 5 or 6 runs. And don't forget to oil the bearings with light sowing machine oil or ZX1.

2/   Never over gear your motor. Check the brushes after each run and if the ends of the brushes are blue (this means the lubrication in the brushes has been burnt away and is causing increased friction and wear on the comm.) change them straight away and either lower your gearing or fit a weaker spring.

3/   If you don't have weaker springs you can try bending a pair of stiff springs with a pair of snipe nose pliers.

4/   A cool motor is an efficient motor.
Have you ever noticed that as the race nears the last minute or so your car seems to loose its punch out of the corners. Well some of this may be due to your batteries dumping (batteries loose their efficiency as they get hotter - ever heard of temperature resistance? You have now.) but your motor also looses power due to heat, as the magnets become less efficient.
My best tip, and some regard as controversial, is to get yourself a can of liquid nitrogen spray (The kind of thing doctors use to freeze off warts) and lightly spray the motor innards through the endbell just before a race. But remember don't overdo this as it can cause damage. You have been warned.

5/   To increase power, reduce friction, arcing and therefore heating the motor to some degree, try a drop of ZX1 on the face of each brush before a run. The effect only lasts maybe 3 or 4 laps but it may be enough to get your nose infront

Check out my other pages below for more Hints and Tips.


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